一件衣服的品質好壞, 會影響到整個品牌的形象價值以及消費者穿著的實際感受

因此當布料完成時,必定要經過品質檢測來判斷物性/化性好壞,

紡織布料測試規範可分為三種規範: 歐規ISO/美規ASTM or AATCC/日規JIS來區分

每家品牌對布料的物性標準也有所不同, 不過大品牌的標準通常都是指標依據

(物性標準的名詞介紹可以參考另一篇 紡織｜紡織物性標準名詞解釋(色牢度、縮率) )

因此提供三家指標性品牌的物性標準給大家參考:

1. This is the logo for Columbia sportsware | ? logo, Columbia, Party invitations diy Columbia(哥倫比亞)標準

 

TEST  ITEM(英)

 測試項目(中) 方法 品牌標準
Full width 幅寬 ASTM D3774 B ≥ cuttable width可裁幅寬
Fabric weight 碼重 ASTM D3776 ±5%
Warp count 經密 ASTM D3775 ±5%
Fill count 緯密 ASTM D3775 ±5%
Dimentional stability washing

水洗收縮

(尺寸安定性)

 AATCC135 1次水洗 ±3% X ±3%
ISO 6330 OPTION B 3次水洗 ±3% X ±3%
Steam shrinkage 蒸氣燙縮 ISO 3005 2%
Appearance of durable press fabric after laundering 水洗外觀 AATCC124 洗3次 灰標3級
Pilling resistance 起毛球 ASTM D3512/
GB/T 4802.1 for China mkt		 針織 MIN 3.0 face  MIN 2.0 back
Snagging 勾紗 JIS L 1058 D2 MIN 4.0
Tear strength 撕裂強度 ASTM D1424 ≦100 g/m2:1.6 lbf
101 g/m2 - 169 g/m2:2.3 lbf
≧170 g/m2: 2.5 lbf
Or as approved spec
Day light(color fastness to light) 日光牢度 ISO105 B02 METHOD 3 As LAB-DIP
Color fastness to Heat：Hot pressing 乾燙牢度 AATCC133 As LAB-DIP
Color fastness to crocking(rubbing) 乾摩擦 ISO 105X12 General fabrics, light colors淺色 Dry 4.0 / Wet 3.0
General fabrics, dark colors深色 Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5
Prints / Yarn-Dye / Garment Dye and Lining / Fleece, light colors Dry 3.5 / Wet 3.0
Lining / Fleece, dark colors Dry 3.5 / Wet 2.5
Color fastness to washing(laundering) 水洗牢度

ISO105 C06 B1M method 50° C

 As LAB-DIP
Color fastness to perspiration(acid) 汗牢度(酸) ISO105 E04 As LAB-DIP
Color fastness to perspiration(alkaline) 汗牢度(鹼) ISO105 E04 As LAB-DIP
Color fastness to water 水牢 ISO 105 E01 As LAB-DIP
Color fastness to seawater 海水牢度 ISO 105 E02 As LAB-DIP
PH of extract PH值 ISO 3071 WHITE白色 4.0-6.5
COLOR有色 4.0-7.5
Phenolic yellowing 酚黃 ISO 105-X18 4.5
Water repellency(spray) 撥水 AATCC22 AS SPEC
Water repellency (drop) 撥水(DROP) AATCC193 AS SPEC
Rain test 雨淋 AATCC35 AS SPEC
Hydrostatic pressure 耐水壓 ISO 811 Before HL only:  ≥3000 mm H2O
For fabrics w/ hangtag waterproof claim:≥3500 mm H2O
Absorbency 吸濕 GB/T 21655.1, Article 8.1 for CHINA Knits:  ≥ 200%; Wovens:  ≥ 100%
Stretch,growth & recovery 彈性回復力 ASTM D3107 AS SPEC
Surface abrasion(martindale) 乾摩擦(馬汀戴爾) ASTM D4966 Blouse/Shirt/Skirt fabrics and coated or uncoated lining fabrics: 10,000 rubs
 Jacket/Trousers, uncoated: 20,000 rubs
Color fastness to chlorine bleach 氯漂 AATCC TS-001 AS SPEC
Color fastness to non-chlorine bleach 非氯漂 AATCC TS-001 AS SPEC
Air permeability 透氣 ASTM D737 AS SPEC
Water Vapor permeability 透濕 GB/T 12704.1 Desiccant Method Knits:  ≥ 10,000 g/(m2•d)
Wovens:  ≥ 8000 g/(m2•d)
Oil repellency ( Hydrocarbon Resistance test ) 撥油 AATCC118 AS SPEC
Vertical Wicking 吸濕高度(蕊吸高度) GB/T 21655.1, Article 8.4 for CHINA Knits:  ≥ 100 mm in 30 min
AATCC197 Wovens:  ≥ 90 mm in 30 min
Wrinkle Recovery of  Fabrics 皺折回復度 AATCC128 MIN 3.0
Dry Time 乾燥時間 CSSP2006 AS SPEC
Pilling resistance - Martindale pressure tester method 起毛球(馬汀戴爾) ASTM D4970/CSSP2001
GB/T 4802.1		 200 cycles (3200 rubs) up to 1000 cycles (16000 rubs)
Color fastness to dye transfer 儲藏牢度(昇華) AATCC 163-170°C/48 hrs and 90°C/24 hrs AS LAB-DIP
UPF

抗UV(紫外線)

 AATCC183 AS SPEC

 

  1. 25% Off In December 2021 | Lululemon Coupons | SFGate Lulu lemon(露露檸檬)標準
      測試項目(中) 方法 品牌標準
    Full width 幅寬 ASTM D3774 - OPTION B > cuttable width
    Fabric weight 碼重 ASTM D3776 ±5%
    Dimentional stability washing

    水洗收縮

    		 AATCC135 WOVEN ±3%
    KNIT ±3%
    Snagging 勾紗 JIS L 1058 D1 MIN 4.0
    Tear strength 撕裂強度 ASTM D1424 < 100 g/m2 = 1.5 lbs minimum
    100-200 g/m2 = 2 lbs minimum
    >200 g/m2 = 3 lbs minimum
    Tensile  strength 拉伸強度 ASTM D5034 < 100 g/m2 = 35 lbs minimum
    100-200 g/m2 = 50 lbs minimum
    >200 g/m2 = 50 lbs minimum
    All standards are in warp and weft direction
    Seam slippage(propert) 縫目滑紗 ASTM D434 < 100 g/m2 = 25 lbs minimum
    100-200 g/m2 = 35 lbs minimum
    >200 g/m2 = 45 lbs minimum
    PH of extract PH值 AATCC81 4.5-7.5
    Phenolic yellowing 酚黃 ISO 105-X18 4
    Skewness(spirality)(bowing) 歪斜 AATCC179 ±3%
    Day light(color fastness to light) 日光牢度 AATCC16E-10AFU As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to crocking(rubbing) 乾摩擦 AATCC 8 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to washing(laundering) 水洗牢度

    AATCC61-2A

    		 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to perspiration(acid) 汗牢度(酸) AATCC15 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to perspiration(alkaline) 汗牢度(鹼) AATCC15 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to water 水牢 AATCC107 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to seawater 海水牢度 AATCC106 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to chlorine sensitivity -Low Water level 耐氯水 AATCC 162 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to dye transfer 儲藏牢度(昇華)  ASTM D6544-12/ ASTM D6603-12 AS LAB-DIP
    Water repellency(spray) 撥水 AATCC22 AS SPEC
    Rain test 雨淋 AATCC35 AS SPEC
    Hydrostatic pressure 耐水壓 AATCC127 AS SPEC
    Stretch,growth & recovery 彈性回復力 BS4952 AS SPEC
    Air permeability 透氣 ASTM D737 AS SPEC
    Soil release (Oily Stain Release method ) 去汙  AATCC 130 AS SPEC
    Vertical Wicking 吸濕高度(蕊吸高度) Lululemon Proprietary Method LLL- 10197
    (Based on AATCC 197 Option B Modified)    		 AS SPEC
    Waterproof 低耐水壓(防水) ASTM D737-04 (R2012) AS SPEC
    Wind Proof 防風 ASTM D6797 AS SPEC
    Pilling resistance - Martindale pressure tester method 起毛球(馬汀戴爾) ASTM D4970 Grade 4 @ 1000 movements
    Surface abrasion(martindale) 乾摩擦(馬汀戴爾) ASTM D4966 No broken yarn after 20,000 rubs
    UPF 抗UV(紫外線) AATCC183 AS SPEC

 

  1. PUMA鞋推薦八款人氣休閒鞋【2021最新】 Puma(彪馬)標準
      測試項目(中) 方法 品牌標準
    Full width 幅寬 ISO 22198:2006-10 ≧ cuttable width
    Fabric weight 碼重 ISO 3801:1977 ±5%
    Dimentional stability washing

    水洗收縮

    		 PUMA Method ± 2%
    Appearance of durable press fabric after laundering 水洗外觀 ISO 6330 AS SPEC
    Snagging 勾紗 JIS L 1058 Method D-2 18000 rev : grade ≥ 3-4
    Tear strength 撕裂強度 ISO 13937-2:2000-04

    Bottom≥ 15 N

    Outerwear≥ 150 N

    Midlayer≥ 11 N

    Lining≥ 9 N
    Tensile  strength 拉伸強度 ISO 13934-2

    Bottom≥ 250 N

    Outerwear≥ 150 N

    Midlayer≥ 150 N

    Lining≥ 130 N

    Towels+Bathrobes≥ 200 N
    Seam slippage(propert) 縫目滑紗 ISO 13936-2:2004-04

    Bottom≤ 4mm at 160N

    Outerwear≤ 4mm at 150N

    Midlayer≤ 4mm at 150N

    Lining≤ 4mm at 130N
    Day light(color fastness to light) 日光牢度 ISO 105-B02:1994 As LAB-DIP
    Sublimation in storage 移染 JIS L0854 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to crocking(rubbing) 乾摩擦 ISO 105-X12:2001-05 dry: >4
    wet: >2-3
    Dark garment dyed, dark dip
    dyed fabrics, Denim, wash-    outfabrics,
    corduroy, velvet, dark cotton and peached fabrics:    		 dry: >3
    wet: <2
    Color fastness to washing(laundering) 水洗牢度

    ISO 105-C08:2010-03

    		 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to perspiration(acid) 汗牢度(酸) ISO 105-E04:2008-09 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to perspiration(alkaline) 汗牢度(鹼) ISO 105-E04:2008-09 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to water 水牢 ISO 105-E01:2010-04 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to seawater 海水牢度 ISO 105-E02:1994-09 As LAB-DIP
    Color fastness to chlorine sensitivity -Low Water level 耐氯水 ISO 105-E03:2010-04 As LAB-DIP
    Phenolic yellowing 酚黃 ISO 105-X18:2007-09 >4
    Water repellency(spray) 撥水 ISO 4920:2012-04 AS SPEC
    Rain test 雨淋 AATCC 35:2006(USA ONLY) water penetration: ≤ 1 g
    Hydrostatic pressure 耐水壓 ISO 811 AS SPEC
    Absorbency 吸濕 Puma Method:2012-12 ≦3sec
    Stretch,growth & recovery 彈性回復力 Puma test Method:2013-04 AS SPEC
    Air permeability 透氣 ISO 9237:1995-06 AS SPEC
    Water Vapor permeability 透濕 JIS L 1099 Method A1:2006 AS SPEC
    Vertical Wicking 吸濕高度(蕊吸高度) JIS L 1907-7.1.2 Byreck method Woven:≥ 5 cm after 10 min.
    Knits:≥ 8 cm after 10 min.
    Dry Time 乾燥時間 Puma Method:2012-12 woven and knits
    residual moisture after 30 minutes drying time
    100% synthetics: ≤30%
    cotton/synthetic blends: ≤50%
    Pilling resistance - Martindale pressure tester method 起毛球(馬汀戴爾) ISO 12945-2 Grade ≥3-4 after
    2000rev.
    Surface abrasion(martindale) 乾摩擦(馬汀戴爾) ISO 12947-2:1998-12 No fabric breakage 10000 cycles
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