螞蟻的斜槓人生

今天來跟大家分享紡織布常見的瑕疵原因中英文對照，

布疋的生產過程中需要經過：紗→織→染→整，而各工段都有可能產生瑕疵造成最終成品賣像不佳導致異常客訴

故要先知道是從哪個環節產生的瑕疵原因，才更容易掌握改善方法並與客戶溝通協調

紗因&織因 Yarn & Weaving Factors

1.停車痕 Stop Mark

2.斷緯 Broken Picks

3.稀弄 Barre

4.折返 Fold

5.併緯 Double Wefted

6.節絲/節紗 Nep Slub

7.斷經 Broken Ends

8.經紗異常 Wrong Warp Yarn

9.筘痕 Skipdent

10.緯痕 Filling Bar

11.緯紗異常 Weft Yarn Abnormal

12.機械段 Weft Mark

13.胚布銹污 Greige Rusting Spot

14.胚布油汙 Oily Spot

15.直條 Warp Stripe

16.霉污 Milew Spot

17.胚布折痕 Creases

18.胚布水跡  Greige Waterish

19.緯紗污髒 Dirty Weft Yarn

20.經紗污髒 Dirty Warp Yarn 

21.色段 Shade Bar 

22.緊經 Warp Lossen

23.鬆緯 Weft Lossen

24.黃化 Browned

25.布種不同 Clothes Differed

26.內外層差 Out-In Layer Differed

27.疋差 Bolts Differed

28.錯用緯紗 Weft Yarn Misused

29.異常紗 Abnormal Yarn

30.蛛網 Cobweb

31.螞蟻斑 Ant Trace

32.胚布毛羽 Greige Feathered

33.胚布鉤傷 Greige Hook Harm

34.爛布頭 Greige Head Harmed

35.鬆編導致落針 Loss Pin

36.組織錯誤 Wrong Structure

37.外廠磨毛因 Bubbing Factor

38.織因其他 Other Factor

39.夾紗 Fly

40.胚布破洞 Hole

41.胚布壓傷 Greige Pressure Harm

42.胚布首尾異色 Head-End Greige Differed

43.胚布緯紗異常(緯密異常) Weft Density Abnormal

44.胚布無雙色感 No Bicolor

45.胚布擦傷 Abrasion

46.外廠加工因 Processed Factor

47.胚布毛度過長 Greige over Haired

48.胚布棉絮 Greige Flossed

49.胚布接錯面 Wrong Side Connetion

50.胚布污髒 Greige Dirty

51.布邊鬚過長導致拉傷 Pull Harm by Greige Beard

52.胚因掉毛 Greige Drop Hair

53.改紗導致布不良 Change Yarn

54.錯綜 Wrong Twine

55.跳花 Skips

56.錯穿 Wrong Penetrate

57.緯紗收縮異常 Weft Yarn Shrinking Abnormal

58.胚放錯布 Wrong Placement

59.織因左右異色 L-R Color Differed

60.鬆經 Warp Lossen

61.糾結 Tangle

62.經紗收縮異常 Warp Yarn Shrinking Abnormal

63.修色不佳

64.織因掃條

65.萊卡外露(萊卡Lycra=OP=彈性纖維外露) Elastic Exposed

66.整經異常 Warping Abnormal

染因 Dyeing Factors

1.染花 Color Uneven

2.染料點 Dyeing

3.剝水斑 Removal of Repel Spot

4.水傷 Material Spot

5.解撚折痕 Bend Scar

6.解撚斑 Relaxation Stain

7.減量斑 De-Quantity Stain

8.左右異色 L-R Color Differed

9.染色折痕 Dye Streaks

10.染機擦傷 Scratch

11.染機擦痕 Scratch Scar

12.棉穀粒 Cotton Grain

13.水洗不淨 Unclean Washing

14.染色色污 Color Stain

15.染機光澤斑 Dyeing Machine Lighting Spot

16.染機鉤傷 Sang

17.不對色 Color Mismatch

18.色差 Color Difference

19.缸差 Color Difference Due to Batchtting

20.皺紋效果明顯 Obvious Folding Effect

21.無雙色感 No Bicolor

22.纏車 Fabric Tie Up

23.染機皺紋 Wrinkless

24.布車沾污 Color Stain From Cloth Car

25.撕裂不合格 Tearing Unqualified

26.摩擦牢度不合格 Rubbing Unqualified

27.染色不均 Dyeing Uneven

28.經向折痕 Warp Bend Scar

29.水洗牢度不合格 Launering Unqualified

30.首尾異色 Head-End Color Differed

31.剝色不完全 De-Colored Imcompleted

32.染機污染 Dyeing Machine Polluted

33.鹼化 Alkalizes

34.脆化 Crisp

35.未染色 No Dyeing

36.雙色感明顯 Double Color Appearance

37.染錯色 Wrong Color Dyeing

38.成縐折痕 Bend Scar

39.入錯布 Wrong Fabric Input :屬於人為因素，因白胚不容易區分故在布上做好布號標記是非常重要防錯的步驟。

40.酸味太重 Over Acidity :因為染整助劑是化學藥劑，故會需要調整PH值，若染料拿捏不恰當PH值過低則會造成酸味太重。

41.超染 Over Dyeing :可以把染缸想像成大型鋼杯，不同的缸型會有不同的缸容量限制，若同時塞太多或太少布疋都容易有問題。

42.布車鉤傷 Hookharm

43.接疋 Seam Mark

44.調錯布 Wrong Fabric Adjustment

45.黃化不合格 Browned Fail

46.水洗牢度變褪色 Water Wash Discolored

47.碼重不足 Weight Reject